Abel Tasman

Activity Date: 27 Apr 2022
Updated: 11 Nov 2024
People: Finn, Jen

After our great adventure to Jam Hut and the Clarence, we wanted something a bit quieter. We recuperated for the night in Blenheim before heading to Nelson to catch up with some friends. While there we booked the Abel Tasman! We didn’t look into staying at the huts knowing that they would be busy. We thought we’d enjoy camping more as it would be quieter and closer to nature.

Day 1: To Anapai Campsite

Timing:

• 1:05 to Whariwharangi Hut & Campsite
• 2:00 to Separation Point
• 2:30 to Mutton Cove
• 3:30 to Anapai Campsite

We got picked up from Mārahau at 11.00 am by Trek Express. I found their website a little inscrutable so just picked up the phone and booked that way. It was $60pp and it took 1.5hrs to reach the Wainui Bay track start.

The track begins by climbing up to the junction with the Inland Track, but the climbing is extremely gentle. It then gently descents into Whariwharangi Hut & Campsite. There, if you read the signs, you will find out the extremely good track is due to the hut being an old homestead!

Once we climbed back out of Whariwharangi we decided to take the slightly extended route to Mutton Cove via Separation Point. Pretty neat little point – think it would make a funky campsite! From there the track descends into Mutton Cove and then sidles around to Anapai Bay. We started walking at 1 pm so by the time we arrived the sun had set behind the hill and it was cooling down, so we didn’t swim, instead opting for hot drinks, food and reading our books.

Day 2: To Onetahui Campsite

Timing:

• 0:40 to Tōtaranui Campsite
• 1:20 to Goat Bay
• 1:45 to Whaiharakeke Bay
• 2:25 to Awaroa Hut & Campsite
• 3:30 to Tonga Saddle (+ lunch)
• 4:35 to Onetahuti Campsite

After going to sleep around 8 pm (man, camping is great) I woke up by accident for the sunrise! Jen was still fast asleep though so I hopped back into bed and finished my book.

We made good time to Tōtaranui Campsite – it’s even bigger than I remember – and kept plodding in the direction of Awaroa. Skinner Point is 5min detour to get a good view back across Tōtaranui!

We reached Awaroa Inlet about 1:40 before low tide and decided to just try it. It was all totally fine except for a small channel near the south side where I almost got my butt wet. No big deal! We turned out to have opened the floodgates when we crossed, as a horde of people came out of Awaroa Hut and headed for the crossing. Most did fine, but some of the small kids needed some help from their parents. Thankfully they were simply heading to Tōtaranui for a water taxi, so they weren’t too far from dry clothes.

The weather got increasingly gloomy during the afternoon as we walked to Tonga Saddle, but it never did quite rain. After pondering getting a coffee at the Awaroa Lodge we found a note at Tonga Saddle saying it was closed until October (reasonable).

We reached Onetahuti Campsite at 3 pm which left plenty of time for tea, coffee, snacks and reading! We weren’t too keen on a swim due to the gloomy weather. We would find out the weka at Onetahuti are particularly sneaky. They managed to get rubbish from each of the three parties that stayed the night there! What a menace.

Day 3: Akersten Campsite

Timing:

• 0:13 to Tonga Bay
• 1:10 to Bark Bay Hut
• 2:40 to Torrent Bay
• 3:10 to Anchorage Hut & Campsite
• 4:45 to Akersten (+ lunch)

Had another good sleep despite being in a tent. We set off a little earlier than usual (9.30 am). We made good time in the morning and were too early for the Bark Bay low-tide cross, so took the normal track. This track is almost worth it any time of day! There are some great bridges and streams around the inlet, so go do it! The campsite for Bark Bay also looks awesome, it’s on the spit that crosses the inlet. Very nice.

From Bark Bay, there are a few short but steep climbs out of various bays, but nothing to be concerned about. Torrent Bay is about 1:30 away! We arrived at Torrent Bay at a perfect tide for crossing, almost bang on low tide. After admiring some of the fancy houses in Torrent Bay we trudged across (shoes on!) and headed to Anchorage for lunch.

After lunch, we took the Anchorage Acces Track up to the main track where we could follow it past Watering Cove Campsite, Observation Beach Campsite to Akersten Bay Campsite! A quick and steep descent will see you at the tiny campsite right on the beach!

We both had a little dip and rinse in the bay, but were not enthused to get in too much because we were about to lose the sunlight (damn east coast). But, smelling better, we settled in for another great afternoon of drinking coffee and tea, eating snacks and reading.

Day 4: Out to Mārahau

Timings:

• 0:35 to Apple Tree Bay Campsite
• 1:00 to Coquille Bay Campsite
• 1:10 to Tinline Campsite
• 1:35 to Mārahau

We woke up after another good sleep with the campsite to ourselves, finished our books, drank some tea and coffee, and had our normal breakfast oats. It didn’t take long to pack up after that and we set off, knowing we had to drive back to Christchurch today. We set quite the pace today, urged on by the idea of espresso coffee in Motueka and a hot shower at home. The track is amazingly level and has a few offshoots to little campsites (above). In the end, we didn’t visit any campsites and got out to the car in 1:35. Phew!

With fresh clothes on, we were good to go for the drive home! What a great tramping adventure. Easy walking, lovely beaches and camping, lots of hot drinks, lots of reading, and going to sleep easy! Just perfect.